The true story of the sailor shirt
→ Origin of the famous striped knitting
The sailor shirt and its famous striped pattern need no introduction! An emblematic garment of the French Navy, popularized by Jean-Paul Gaultier and a Breton symbol par excellence, it has a rich historical background. How did the evolve from a simple sailor's undergarment to a fashion staple? And how has it managed to endure the years while remaining up to date?
In this guide, discover the origins of the sailor shirt, its stylistic evolution and the major French brands that perpetuate this symbol of French know-how.
→ Sailor shirt, a garment born of the sea
Before being associated with France, the sailor shirt style was already worn in the Russian navy in the 19th century. At the time, it served as a body knit, an undergarment worn under a smock, the traditional sailor's blouse. This type of 18th century sailors clothing laid the foundation for what later became a fashion staple.
The collar was often V-shaped, and a strip of fabric went down the back, offering greater protection. The term "striped knit" referred to these garments, which were often associated with travellers or prostitutes, long before they became a symbol of the . Today, this iconic piece is part of the dress code mariniere and is proudly worn by anyone seeking to embody the timeless elegance of a french mariner.
→ The origin of the sailor shirt's stripes
What is sailor shirt ? On March 27, 1858, a decree introduced the sailor shirt as the official uniform of the french navy clothing. This cotton garment features blue and white stripes, with very precise rules:
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21 white stripes (a supposed reference to Napoleon's 21 victories),
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14 blue stripes per sleeve,
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Three-quarter sleeves, invisible under a vareuse (another element of the uniform).
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Each white stripe is twice as wide as a blue stripe.
Why do sailors wear stripes ? The stripes weren't just aesthetic: they were used to identify sailors who had fallen at sea, and to distinguish between petty officers and midshipmen, the lowest ranks in the hierarchy.
Sailor shirt in fashion, from Coco Chanel to JP Gaultier
In 1916, Coco Chanel reinvented the sailor top, propelling it into the world of . She uses jersey, a soft knit previously reserved for underwear, to create short-sleeved breton shirt inspired by seafaring outfits. This practical, elegant piece became a symbol of emancipation and modernity. A revolution by Coco Chanel, inspired by Jean-Paul Gaultier.
In the 1970s-1980s, Jean-Paul Gaultier made it his emblem. Jean-Paul Gaultier's sailor shirt is available as a dress, sweater, corset or haute couture piece. He plays with stripes, cuts and colors, helping to make the sailor top an artistic, daring and profoundly French garment.
→ Sailor shirt through the ages
Today, there is a wide collection of sailors shirts :
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Blue and white sailor top or navy blue sailor top, true to tradition
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Red and white sailor top, for a bolder style
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Blue-white-and-red sailor top, for a made-in-France look
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Personalized, embroidered or silk-screened sailboats
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Sailor shirt for men and , in tailored cuts
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Sailor sweater, dress, round or boat neck, long or short sleeves
→ The sailor top: a French symbol in the 21st century
The made-in-France sailor top has become a cultural symbol. In 2011, Nike collaborated with the French Football Federation on a sailor shirt-style jersey. In 2012, Arnaud Montebourg appeared in an Armor Lux sailor top on the cover of Le Parisien Magazine, embodying the French garment's resurgence in political debate.
The garment now embodies a triple heritage: historical, aesthetic and identity-building. It reflects the know-how of French workshops, the elegance of fashion designers, and the attachment to national values.
→ Striped sailor shirt : the essential brands
The top brands that perpetuate the tradition of the Breton shirt made in France:
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Saint James: Marine clothing specialist since 1889, creator of the Saint James sailor top.
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Armor Lux: Founded in 1938 in Quimper, known for its high-quality cotton
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Le Mahieu: French manufacturer of organic cotton clothing and sailor top
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Le Minor: Artisanal workshop that still produces its breton shirt by hand in Brittany
Brands such as Armor Lux, Saint James, Le Minor and Brin de Mer offer breton shirt made in France, respecting the codes of marine clothing while innovating with modern options: sustainable materials, bright colors, revisited motifs.
→ A timeless piece at the heart of French identity
Today, the sailor top is considered a true French symbol, due to its close link with the uniform of the French Navy, but also thanks to its reinvention by major figures in marine fashion such as Coco Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier. It embodies style, practicality and French elegance. This iconic garment is part of french navy clothing, cherished across generations.
Its origins date back to the 19th century: first worn by the Russian navy, it was officially adopted in France in 1858 by decree, becoming a regulated uniform. The blue and white stripes were used to identify sailors who had fallen overboard, echoing even earlier elements of the french navy uniform 18th century.
Today, several French brands carry on the tradition with sailor shirts made in France: Saint James, , Le Minor and Le Mahieu are all benchmarks for quality, style and durability. The can be worn in a multitude of ways: with a jean, jacket or sweater in winter, as a dress or top for a more feminine look, or as a sailor tee shirt customized to your own style. The essential element remains the stripes, the unmistakable signature of this iconic piece, proudly worn by every french sailor.
Finally, don't confuse the sailor top with the smock, a thick blouse historically worn over the latter. Once strictly functional, today the smock is also being revisited in more casual, unisex fashion versions, suitable for both men and women.
→ Sailor top : a marine fashion icon
The sailor top, long marginalized, is today an iconic garment that embodies French style. From Coco Chanel to Jean-Paul Gaultier, from the French Navy to couture shows, it crosses centuries, genres and collections. Wearing a made in France sailor top means choosing a piece rooted in history, faithful to a savoir-faire, and always with stripes.
Finally, the price of a sailor tee shirt varies according to its origin and quality: count between €25 and €40 for an imported version, while a ranges from 60 to 120 €, or even up to 200 € for haute couture designer models.
